Cake mascara colors, lengthens and thickens eyelashes but, unlike wand mascara, does not clump. It is the mascara of choice for many professional makeup artists because it enables them to have complete control over how much coverage is applied to lashes. Cake mascara is applied by blending the mascara with water and applying it to lashes with a brush, one layer at a time. The more layers, the heavier the coverage. Apply one or two layers to simply enhance the beauty of the eyes or multiple layers to make a bold fashion statement.
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Pour 2.4 oz. of distilled water into a glass container. Add 1/8 tsp. xanthan gum, 12 drops of provitamin B5, 1 tsp. glycerin and 1 tsp. gum arabic. Use a plastic spoon, or spatula, to mix the ingredients until they are completely dissolved.
Fill a small sauce pan with water, and set a clean glass container in the water. Add 2 tsp. of stearic acid along with ¾ tsp. candelilla wax, ¾ tsp. ceteareth-20, 0.2 oz. beeswax and 0.1 oz. of carnauba wax to the glass container. Heat the ingredients in the glass container to 167 degrees F by placing the small sauce pan on the stove top on low heat. Check the temperature of the mixture using a cooking thermometer.
Mix 1 tbsp. plus ½ tsp. of iron oxide black along with ¼ tsp. cyclo-dimethicone using a mortar and pestle. Add this mixture to the heated ingredients from Step 2 and stir well, using a clean spatula, to disperse the pigments. Keep the mixture on low heat.
Fill another small sauce pan with water and place the glass container from Step 1 into the water. Heat the ingredients over low heat to 167 degrees F. Slowly add and mix these ingredients to the heated glass container from Step 2, while being careful to maintain a temperature of 158 degrees F.
Let the mixture cool down to 140 degrees F. Add 22 drops of paraben-DU and stir. Pour the mixture into mascara containers while the liquid is still hot, using a pipette. Let the mascara cool completely before using.